22 December 2013

Czech Christmas Mass in Brussels


The land of Dvorak and Kafka is a magical place. Bohemia is a fairytale land full of mystery. So it is not surprising that Czechs love Christmas.

To outsiders, Czech Christmas traditions and rituals may seem absurd at first. But dare to joke about them with Czechs and you will be shot down with complete earnestness. Czechs take their Christmas very seriously indeed.

Prague Zoo has recently unveiled a cage containing three Santa Clauses. They are billed as a very invasive species, but visitors need not worry, as they will be shipped back to New York Zoo on 23 December. There is no need to fear that these bearded red monsters will scare away the beloved little baby Jesus who magically brings presents to Czechs on Christmas Eve.

So whilst the Czech Republic is reputedly the most secular country in Europe, it is startling that the Czech Christmas appears so authentically Christian in its practice and values.

Take the Czech Christmas Mass for example. It is their most beloved Christmas carol and Czechs flood to see it performed live every year.

This reporter was privileged enough to witness a performance last weekend in a church in Brussels. Before you atheists and agnostics out there dismiss it out of hand, no priest nor mass is actually involved. It is a beautiful melodic carol for a full choir with soloists and musical accompaniment.

While the nine parts begin with first Kyrie and then Gloria, they do not proceed with Snoria and Boria as one may suspect of some dusty 18th century musical piece. The piece begins with the bass tenor booming 'Hey, Master!' as the birth of Jesus is reported to shepherds on the Bohemian hills. It progresses with general excitement and rejoicing over the birth of the saviour.

Details aside, it is a very rewarding experience for any music-lover and/or Christmas-enthusiast. A general warmth and good cheer spread throughout the rapt audience as the 45-minute piece was performed with grace and fervour.

It was a very open event and there were representatives from all generations, with many families and small children. The little sprogs raced around the aisles playing tag and letting out squeals of delight or cries of displeasure on a whim. But nobody minded. The spirit of Czech Christmas was all around us.

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